Lawn Care Guidelines
A healthy lawn requires proper attention to three important areas:
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WATERING - Improper watering is a significant cause of damaged lawns
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FERTILIZATION - Proper fertilization will lead to a healthy, lush lawn and result in less damage from weeds and disease
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MOWING - A sharp-bladed mower can have a lawn looking well-clipped and tidy
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WATERING:
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Irrigate long enough for the water to reach at least six inches in depth so roots will not be shallow.
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Shallow roots are less able to tolerate changes in temperature and soil moisture.
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Examine the soil with a shovel or probe several hours after watering to determine how deeply the water infiltrated the root zone. Water as needed to maintain a moist root zone.
When to Water:
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Early morning is the best time to water to improve irrigation efficiency and limit disease.
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There is less hot weather in the morning and a full day to dry the leaves.
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Night watering can lead to disease from the leaves being wet for too long.
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Improve Watering Effectiveness:
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Make all the water available to the grass.
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Grass with accumulated thatch and/or compacted soil cannot absorb water easily.
Over-watering:
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Leaches nutrients, especially nitrogen.
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Encourages weeds.
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Causes oxygen depletion in the root zone.
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FERTILIZING:
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Adequate amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are essential.
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Grasses are heavy users of nitrogen and potassium.
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Potassium should be applied in equal ratios with nitrogen especially if lawns clippings are removed.
When to Fertilize:
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An easy way to remember is to fertilize near the holidays of Easter, Memorial Day, 4th of July, Labor Day, and Halloween.
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Mulch mowing is equivalent to one or two fertilizer applications.
How Much Fertilizer:
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4 lbs. of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year whether a complete fertilizer or only nitrogen.
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Divide the amount into 4 or 5 equal applications to provide the season total.
Sulfur:
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Enhances color and helps limit certain weeds and diseases.
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Recommend 2 to 3 lbs. per 1,000 square feet per year applied over two applications.
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Either select a lawn fertilizer that contains sulfur or apply ammonium sulfate.
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MOWING:
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Dull mowers cause chewed-off, ragged grass blades to die back and give the lawn an off-color appearance.
Grass Height:
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Set the mower at 1.5 to 2 inches for fine-leafed fescues. Closer mowing will weaken fescue.
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Kentucky Bluegrass (including any seed mixes with the bluegrass) should be mowed at 2 to 2.5 inches.
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Mowing at taller heights help shade the soil and cool the root system which improves heat and drought tolerance, and results in less water use.
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Taller grass reduces weed seed germination because light is prevented from penetrating the soil.
Grass Clippings:
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Leave grass clippings on the lawn as you mow.
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Clippings break down quickly, add nitrogen, and contrary to common belief, don't add to thatch buildup.
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Nutrient deficiencies occur more readily when all clippings are removed.
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Clippings are equivalent to one to two fertilizer applications.
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Clippings on the lawn save landfill space.
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Excessive clippings should be removed to prevent smothering, disease, and for improved appearance.
ADDITIONAL PRACTICES:
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Thatching:
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Thatch is the dead, matted layer of stems and roots above the surface of the soil where water is trapped and evaporates instead of reaching the root zone.
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If there is more than 1/2 inch of thatch remove the excess.
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Thatch can best be removed by using a dethatcher from a rental company or attachments for your lawn mower.
Aerating:
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A hard, compacted lawn needs aerating to open the soil and allow for better water and air penetration down into the root zone.
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Smaller areas can be spiked with a pitchfork or other manual devices, while power aerifier machines are best for larger lawns.
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For improved penetration, make sure the soil is moist when aerating.
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The above Columbia Basin Conservation District information is courtesy of WSU Extension. Their lawn publication materials can be found online.
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