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Lawn Care Guidelines

A healthy lawn requires proper attention to three important areas:

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WATERING - Improper watering is a significant cause of damaged lawns

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FERTILIZATION - Proper fertilization will lead to a healthy, lush lawn and result in less damage from weeds and disease

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MOWING - A sharp-bladed mower can have a lawn looking well-clipped and tidy

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WATERING:

  • Irrigate long enough for the water to reach at least six inches in depth so roots will not be shallow.

  • Shallow roots are less able to tolerate changes in temperature and soil moisture.

  • Examine the soil with a shovel or probe several hours after watering to determine how deeply the water infiltrated the root zone.  Water as needed to maintain a moist root zone.

 

When to Water:

  • Early morning is the best time to water to improve irrigation efficiency and limit disease.

  • There is less hot weather in the morning and a full day to dry the leaves.

  • Night watering can lead to disease from the leaves being wet for too long.

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Improve Watering Effectiveness:

  • Make all the water available to the grass.

  • Grass with accumulated thatch and/or compacted soil cannot absorb water easily.

 

Over-watering:

  • Leaches nutrients, especially nitrogen.

  • Encourages weeds.

  • Causes oxygen depletion in the root zone.

 

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FERTILIZING:

  • Adequate amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are essential.

  • Grasses are heavy users of nitrogen and potassium.

  • Potassium should be applied in equal ratios with nitrogen especially if lawns clippings are removed.

 

When to Fertilize:

  • An easy way to remember is to fertilize near the holidays of Easter, Memorial Day, 4th of July, Labor Day, and Halloween.

  • Mulch mowing is equivalent to one or two fertilizer applications.

 

How Much Fertilizer:

  • 4 lbs. of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year whether a complete fertilizer or only nitrogen.

  • Divide the amount into 4 or 5 equal applications to provide the season total.

 

Sulfur:

  • Enhances color and helps limit certain weeds and diseases.

  • Recommend 2 to 3 lbs. per 1,000 square feet per year applied over two applications.

  • Either select a lawn fertilizer that contains sulfur or apply ammonium sulfate.

 

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MOWING:

  • Dull mowers cause chewed-off, ragged grass blades to die back and give the lawn an off-color appearance.

 

Grass Height:

  • Set the mower at 1.5 to 2 inches for fine-leafed fescues.  Closer mowing will weaken fescue.

  • Kentucky Bluegrass (including any seed mixes with the bluegrass) should be mowed at 2 to 2.5 inches.

  • Mowing at taller heights help shade the soil and cool the root system which improves heat and drought tolerance, and results in less water use.

  • Taller grass reduces weed seed germination because light is prevented from penetrating the soil.

 

Grass Clippings:

  • Leave grass clippings on the lawn as you mow.

  • Clippings break down quickly, add nitrogen, and contrary to common belief, don't add to thatch buildup.

  • Nutrient deficiencies occur more readily when all clippings are removed.

  • Clippings are equivalent to one to two fertilizer applications.

  • Clippings on the lawn save landfill space.

  • Excessive clippings should be removed to prevent smothering, disease, and for improved appearance.

 

ADDITIONAL PRACTICES:

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Thatching:

  • Thatch is the dead, matted layer of stems and roots above the surface of the soil where water is trapped and evaporates instead of reaching the root zone.  

  • If there is more than 1/2 inch of thatch remove the excess.  

  • Thatch can best be removed by using a dethatcher from a rental company or attachments for your lawn mower.

 

Aerating:

  • A hard, compacted lawn needs aerating to open the soil and allow for better water and air penetration down into the root zone.  

  • Smaller areas can be spiked with a pitchfork or other manual devices, while power aerifier machines are best for larger lawns.  

  • For improved penetration, make sure the soil is moist when aerating.

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The above Columbia Basin Conservation District information is courtesy of WSU Extension. Their lawn publication materials can be found online.

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